Getting from CO to CA was an adventure made much more fun by sharing it with a travel partner, my friend Kurt. A spur of the moment decision, he and I caravaned to GREAT BASIN NATIONAL MONUMENT located on the UT/NV border off Hwy 50.
Headed west from Denver, out I-70, the weather gods smiled and gave us wet but non-icy roads. Refueled at the Charco-Burger in Glenwood Springs, a must-visit old-school burger drive in.
Sunset, past Green River, UT:
Camped in UT the first night. It was icy cold, reminding me I desperately need a new, fluffy down, sub-zero sleeping bag. I’m a cold camper-sleeper.
We (I, he was still sleeping) woke up to this glory:
I get a kick out of pulling into a camping spot, in the dark, and waking up not knowing what the view will be. This was stunning, the pic does not do the color justice. We were near Moore, UT. Fueled up on coffee, stamping the feet, down bags traded for down jackets. Temp gauge in the truck showed temps in the high teens. Brrrrrrr!
Annabelle was a champ. This was her FIRST car camping experience. She made me proud. I had my fingers crossed, hoping she could handle it. The cab of the truck became her “tent” complete with all the comforts of home, including a sleeping bag and blanket to nest into. I peeked in on her that night, making sure she was warm enough, and concluded she may have been warmer than I. Tunneled into the sleeping bag, she was a ball of firey warmth. I was tempted to stuff her into MY sleeping bag!
Carried on through rural UT, home of LARGE Dodge trucks, (more Dodge than Ford or Chevy, we noticed).
GREAT BASIN NATIONAL MONUMENT is a real gem.
People prospected for gold and tungsten in the area starting in the 1840’s. Ruins along the shores of ancient Lake Bonneville (the giant lake, its shoreline located just 10 miles away from the park, of which Great Salt Lake is a remnant of) make prehistoric life evident. Imagine a lake that huge?
Ruins in the park place Native Americans in the area from about 1100-1300. Members of the Freemont culture, they irrigated corn and beans. Rock art is scattered through the park. Shoshone and Paiute people, currently in the area, date back to abot 1300. Hunters and gatherers, the pinion nut was a mainstay of their diet. (I love cooking with pinyon nuts…so earthy…)
Wheeler Peak, a 13’er, dominates the skyline. The was road closed for snow (but was it really snowy up there? Didn’t look it.) I made a mental note to return in the summer for a trip up it. Glaciers nestled against it, the views from the top and its flanks look incredible (at least the ones I saw in a book.)
“Bah Ram Ewe! Bah Ram Ewe! A wool sweater I should be for you!”
We had the park nearly to ourselves. Granted, it is the off-season. Even in the “on” season, it is an uncrowded park. I can see why. Not many just “pass through” that neck of the woods. It is out of the way. (But well worth the trip.)
Snuck in a quick hike beofre dark that first day, near the campsite. Headed up a meadow, through HUGE aspen. Views of Pyramid Peak and peeked through (not in this pic, though).
The vegetation made no sense, varying from sage brush to manzanita to oak to aspen to pine to grassy meadows. I wished for a park ranger’s company and made a mental note to buy a field guide for the area.
Kurt got a kick of the GINORMOUS aspens:
Not a fan of outdoor graffitti, litter or anything that defaces Mother Nature, this trail had some historical graffitti, names and dates carved into the trees. Done at a time when Smokey the Bear was not teaching outdoor ettiquette, I forgave the calling cards. Becoming a game, we hunted for the oldest dates and pondered who was up here and why.
The oldest, Chloe and Emma, 1833:
LH Larsen came in 1939:
This person made the return trip to cancel their declaration of love. NO GOOD!
HA! I find this so funny…
Camped that night next to an old Tungsten mining shack (per the nice ranger man we asked). Kurt freaked me out with ghost stories.
Remains of a rusty bed spring and layers and layers of trash were all left. Trash piles of rusted out cans covered the radius. Whoever used this shack must have ate canned goods, a lot, and had no care for where they threw them. (Smokey the Bear was not around, remember?) One can labeled DDT, a spam can and a couple beer cans were the only I could see remnants of labels on.)
GREAT BASIN NATIONAL MONUMENT also claims a large, underground cave system, comprised of limestone and marble. A rancher and miner, Absalom Lehmen discovered and explored the cave in 1885. Can you imagine spelunking that long ago with hemp ropes and candles? On the tour, the ranger turned off the lights, briefly. I wondered how the flutters in my belly compared to their experiences?
The cave formed in two segments over a loooong time. (Punctuated below)
1) Acidic surface water mixed with water at the water table, swirling around, opening up caverns. Evidence of this can be seen in the domed ceilings. This drained out.
2) Water percolated in from the outside surface, depositing bits of limestone into “decorations” such as stalagtites, stalagmites, columns, draperies, and soda straws. Such fun names!
Columns:
Soda Straws:
My personal favorite, Mmmmmm…”Bacon” formations:
A twisty, narrow corridor:
An exposed portion fo the floor. See the numerous layers? Fascinating.
Kurt and I snagged a primo camping spot far up a dirt road our last night. Hooray for high-clearance! Now I can finally get to those out-of-the-way spots the little Ford Focus just couldn’t get to. At the top of a meadow, with a stunning view to the basin below, we had it to ourselves save some elk.
It was a cold night, again.
The view from our campsite at dusk:
The time came to part ways. Kurt headed back to CO. This cemented my part from home. A little misty-eyed, I headed out “The Lonliest Hwy in America.” No, really…Hwy 50 is signed as such, for good reason.
NV is actually one great big basin. If you looked at a topographical map, you’d see the state looks a big accordian, parallel ranges of mountains with valleys and basins between. Water sometimes does not make it to the sea but drains into marshes, shallow salt lakes, and mudflats re-entering the water cycle through evaporation.
It’s pretty, in a quiet sort of way.
Towns being sparse (only a few with gas between UT and CA, I filled my tank at each.
Passed places of historical interest. Here, the Ward Charcoal Ovens:
Can you imagine the plumes of smoke that filled the sky?
Built by Italian Masonrists, they were rather beautiful in form. Sturdy!
EUREKA was only a couple blocks long but had some intact buildings:
Some not intact:
This scared me. These trucks should be illegal. A triple!
Passed through AUSTIN, famous for its Pony Express station, I noted the historical buildings, all on a hilldide that looks like it’s about to slide away, numerous, in a sad state of disrepair:
The rest of the trip’s photos are gone. I lost a memory card! The good news is there was not much on it save for the Tahoe area pics. The drive from Carson City to Stockton went smoothly. Was refreshing to the eyes to see some snow in the Sierras. Would like to come back to the Tahoe area. (Maybe with skis?)
So ends the trip from CO to CA.